I’ve never quite understood why people surf. Like, I get the aesthetic appeal: the hair, the tan, the body. But the actual act of surfing seems like a nightmare. You’re at the mercy of mother nature’s washing machine. When I’m in the ocean I like to bob around with a cold beer, maybe look at some shells. Not get rag dolled within an inch of my life. That wave was so big, so fast, and had much so power, that it took two two-hundred-and-fifty horsepower Yamahas to outrun it. It’s frightening to think that the exact vessel created to prevent situations like this from happening got owned that easily. It also doesn’t help that they had the worst operators of all time behind the wheel. The first guy was in the clear until he decided to jerk the handlebars for no reason. And even though the second one got the job done, it was ugly. He essentially Kenny Powers’d them off the back.
The craziest part is that these dudes will probably be back out there tomorrow. They’d rather risk it all carving up a tube than do anything else. Fingers crossed we get a post-wipe out interview. He won’t be able to top this dude but I’m sure it will still be gold.