FOOD BLOG: Chicken Vesuvio Week Was A Smash Success! Here Are My Rankings
A few years back I tweeted the above. It occurred to me a while after living in Chicago that "Chicken Vesuvio" didn't exist everywhere.
It was a local delicacy that originated and is perfected here.
A couple weeks ago I announced I was setting out to do an entire week's worth of eating Chicago's best Vesuvio dishes, at some of the cities best staple Italian joints. I also requested some that weren't on my radar- but should be.
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The result was a list of places and suggestions so good, that one week boiled over into two.
As I wrote on the blog announcing my quest-
Picture this: a dish so robust, so flavorful, and so uniquely Chicago that it practically screams "Windy City" with every bite.
That's Chicken Vesuvio.
Before setting foot in this magnificent city, I had never heard of this culinary masterpiece. Most people from here don't realize how distinctly Chicago it is. You can definitely find it on a menu outside of the midwest here and there, but they almost always give a nod to Chicago when featuring it. I was hesitant to try it at first, not going to lie. Pretty much every Italian joint in the city you visit has their version of it on their menu. Truth be told, as a rookie, they all seemed very basic to me. But now? I'm head over heels, and I'm here to spread the love.
Let's get one thing straight—Chicken Vesuvio is as Chicago as deep-dish pizza, the Cubs, or the Sears Tower. This dish isn't just food; it's a piece of Chicago's heart, served on a platter. Originating right here in the city, Chicken Vesuvio is a testament to Chicago's rich culinary tradition, blending Italian-American flavors with Midwestern gusto.
Imagine tender, juicy chicken, (either boneless or bone in), perfectly roasted to golden perfection. Pair that with crispy-on-the-outside, soft-on-the-inside potatoes, all basking in a garlicky, white wine sauce that's so good it should be illegal. And don't even get me started on the peas. Yes, peas. You might ask yourself, "why would they ruin a perfectly good sounding dish with those little vegetables?", but if you know you know. They work. Something about them, where they're not cooked to the point they're soggy, and they absorb the wine and butter just works, adding that pop of sweetness and color that ties everything together.
(Fun Fact - there are two theories as to how the dish got its name. The first is that when adding white wine to the olive oil can make the pan smoke like a volcano. (Vesuvius). The second is that the entrée was invented in the 1930s at a Chicago restaurant called Vesuvio. But this has never been substantiated. If anybody knows the real deal, please let me know.)
Almost as if by fate, "The Chicken Man" himself, Wade Boggs, tweeted out the following just a few days later.
(Fun fact - Wade Boggs was named one of the "Top 10 Most Superstitious Athletes" by Men's Fitness for his well known superstitions about baseball, including his habit of eating chicken before every game and practicing at only specific times of day. His chicken eating habits earned him the nickname "Chicken Man". He even wrote his own cookbook with his favorite chicken recipes in it titled Fowl Tips.)
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NIGHT 1 - La Scarola
La Scarola stands as a beacon of traditional Italian cuisine in Chicago, offering an authentic dining experience that captivates both locals and visitors alike. With its rustic decor, featuring vintage photographs and memorabilia, the restaurant exudes a cozy ambiance reminiscent of a familial Italian gathering. The dimly lit dining area, combined with closely set tables, fosters an intimate atmosphere, making each visit feel like a special occasion. The menu celebrates classic Italian cooking, boasting dishes like Veal Marsala, penna alla vodka, and of course, one of the cities most famous chicken Vesuvio's, prepared with fresh ingredients and a dedication to authenticity.
Ask anybody in Chicago about La Scarola and they'll tell you it's the real deal.
Ask somebody for their top 3 spots to get chicken Vesuvio in Chicago, and chances are swell that La Scarola is in that list.
You can say it's almost what they're known for to a point. So it was the perfect spot to kick things off.
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It's also a place we frequent often, and even got a cooking demonstration back in the day with owner Armando.
La Scarola Score Card
Chicken - Thighs, On The Bone
Sauce - Heavy. White Wine Based
Price - $23.95
Portion - Gigantic
Score - 7.5
Night 2 - Harry Caray's
The first time I tried Chicken Vesuvio, I swear the skies parted and the culinary gods sang. I was at Harry Caray's restaurant in downtown River North for the first time, and was fucking stunned to learn that what I assumed to be a tourist trap serving standard bar food, actually featured a pretty legit Italian menu. Like a stunad I didn't trust them, so I figured I'd order something blasé, chicken with potatoes (and the peas). Chicken Vesuvio.
Little did I know, as the waiter confirmed with a "great choice", that I was about to have what many consider to be the best Vesuvio in the entire city.
The dish arrived at my table, steam rising, aroma wafting, and I knew—I was about to fall in love. With each bite, I was transported. The flavors, the textures, the sheer joy of it all. It was more than a meal; it was an experience. I fucking love good food so indulge me as I hyperbolize this thing. Thanks.
Harry Caray's serves their version on the bone, which honestly might be my favorite because of how tender and moist the meat stays.
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Harry Caray's Score Card
Chicken - Half a Bird, On The Bone
Sauce - Dry. Lots of herbs, spices, and crispy skin.
Price - $31.95
Portion - Medium Sized
Score - 7.1
Night 3 - Mart Anthony's
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(much respect to them for carrying a nice pastina)
What sets Mart Anthony's apart is not just its delicious food, but the genuine sense of community it fosters among its guests. The attentive and friendly staff go above and beyond to ensure a memorable dining experience, treating visitors like part of the family. I was in here on a cold, rainy Tuesday night, and the bar was packed with locals from the neighborhood hanging out sharing bottles of wine. The place has a great atmosphere, and a sensational chicken Vesuvio.
Mart Anthony's Score Card
Chicken - Boneless Breasts
Sauce - Heavy. Heavy butter/chicken stock.
Price - $29
Portion - On The Small Side
Score - 8.3
Night 4 - Viaggio
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Viaggio was a reader recommendation. Or a Twitter follower. I coulnd't find the person to give them the proper credit, but they deserve it because it was fantastic. I've eaten at Viaggio a dozen times but I had never ordered the Vesuvio. Nor had I ever met the owner. This visit I enjoyed both. Dave, who owns the place, couldn't be nicer. He instructed me to get the boneless instead of the bone in (they offer both), sat at the bar with me while I ate, telling me the story about how he went from a professional horse bettor to restaurant owner, and knew the first names of almost everybody who walked into the restaurant during the time I was there.
He's the quintessential Chicago restaurant owner/operator, and part of what makes the hospitality in this city second to none.
If you live in the West Loop, you've been to Viaggio and you know exactly what I'm talking about.
And you know how good the food is.
Viaggio's Score Card
Chicken - Boneless Breasts OR Bone in Half Chicken
Sauce - Heavy. White wine and garlic-based.
Price - $35 for Boneless, $39 for Bone In
Portion - Large
Score - 8.1
Night 5a - Ricobene's
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On my fifth night of Vesuvio Week I ventured down to the South Side for a double feature.
First up was one of my Chicago-bucket-list recommendations, and always trustworthy, dependable spots - Ricobene's.
Those who've read my stuff for a while know I am a yuuuuuuuge fan of this place.
I think they are home to the best sandwich in America- their famous breaded steak.
I didn't visit there for that this trip though. No sir. I was there for something else they do an amazing job with.
They actually do a "Chicken Vesuvio sub" at Ricobene's, and it is extremely, extremely underrated.
For starters, it is fucking massive.
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And it's also so simple and basic, 2 layered, fried chicken cutlets, perfectly breaded and crispy, tomato, lettuce, light mayo, and a garlic butter sauce drizzled all over it on perfectly toasted bread.
Ricobene's Score Card
Chicken - Breaded cutlets on a sub roll
Sauce - Very light. Garlic butter.
Price - $8.99 Small, $12.99 Large
Portion - Gargantuan
Score - 7.4
from there, I headed closer to Sox park and hit our friend's neighborhood spot
Night 5b - Franco's
Franco's is another spot we highlighted a few years ago. Chief, Dave and I fuckin FEASTED at this place, enjoying one of the best never-ending meals any of us had had during Covid.
And their menu, ambiance, and service are right up to par with their excellent food.
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Franco's Score Card
Chicken - Bone-In, half bird pieces
Sauce - Heavy, butter and wine based.
Price - $20
Portion - Large
Score - 7.7
(Sidebar - I swung by Phil's on my way home since I was down that way and those bastards won't deliver north of the river.)
The next night was Friday and since it's Lent, I opted for linguine con vongole at Gino & Marty's since I couldn't have meat.
But the next night I once again took a commenter's suggestion and hit the spot next door to Good Night John Boy, Formento's, up.
Night 7 - Formento's
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Formento's is a somewhat unassuming corner spot on Randolph and Sangamon in the heart of the west loop with an awesome outdoor patio, and a small sandwich shop next door which serves what I believe is the best eggplant parm sandwich in Chicago. (I'm a huge eggplant guy. Pause)
Their staff is awesome and they've become a neighborhood go-to over the years.
Their chicken vesuvio looked like a work of art.
Formento's Score Card
Chicken - Bone-In, half bird
Sauce - Heavy, chicken stock based.
Price - $40
Portion - Medium
Score - 7.1
Night 9 - Volare
Admittedly, Volare is my pound for pound, #1 Italian restaurant in Chicago. We can go on and on and debate your favorites, but for me, Volare checks all the boxes. Italian owner- Benny is off the boat from Sardinia. So is 75% of his staff. Including his executive chef. It's refreshing going to an Italian restaurant and hearing the servers, bussers, and kitchen communicate in Italian. All their sauces are from scratch. Their rotating specials are always out of this world. (If you're there and they have the osso bucco available you HAVE to try it.) The place is always jam-packed. 7 days and nights a week. Regulars eating there 3-4 nights a week, and tourists alike. It's a loud, boisterous restaurant with lots of laughing, yelling, and energy off the charts. If you're looking for a quiet spot, go to a library. They also let you order off the menu.
I found Volare my first year actually venturing downtown, at the advice of my Italian professor at Loyola, whom I complained to that I kept striking out with restaurants that reminded me of back home on the East Coast.
Volare, to me, not only reminds me of a spot that would fit right in on Hanover St. in Boston's North End, for all the reasons above, but it's one of the spots that could hold it's own with Boston, New York, or Providence's best.
Now, having said ALL of that. In the nearly 20 years I've been coming to Volare, I had never had their chicken vesuvio.
To be honest, I couldn't even remember ever seeing it on the menu.
Numerous people suggested it to me and I didn't want to wrap up Vesuvio week without giving it a shot, so I stopped by on Monday night, grabbed a seat at the bar, and ordered off the menu- chicken Vesuvio.,
Volare's Score Card
Chicken - Bone-In, half bird. 2 Pieces- white meat, dark meat
Sauce - Heavy, white wine and garlic based.
Price - Off-menu
Portion - Large
Score - 8.5
So, as much as I hate being a homer here, out of all the spots I tried a couple weeks ago, Volare came out on top. I was surprised, yet I wasn't. I will be running this back again next February and I'll be sure to solicit more suggestions for places I didn't try yet, and places outside of just downtown and Bridgeport. Have them ready to go.
Also- I filmed our own version of cooking the dish with our guy Chef Donny last week that will hopefully be ready to drop this week. Stay tuned.