Céline: courtesy of Céline; all other images by Go RunwayLeg work The pants revival brings with it shorts,louis vuitton outlet, tuxedos and trousers worn under coats and dresses.
I think I probably gasped when I saw pantsuits - real jacket-and-trouser looks - follow one after the other down the fall runway of the usually girly Miu Miu line.
"Why pantsuits?" I asked Miuccia Prada after she had taken a bow wearing not her signature A-line skirt but a this-must-be-vintage-1980s black cloqué jacket and trousers.
"I love it after all these years of wearing skirts," claimed the designer who got us out of the feminist uniform of pants in the early 1990s. Hemlines became hip, and I still remember the crescendo of skirts that I saw in a "Waist Down" exhibition in Prada's Tokyo store in 2004. Now Prada is leading a pants revival, with the modernity coming through in the textiles, like jacquard fabrics and typical Prada patterns - part paisley, part 1970s curtains.
At the start of the fall fashion shows in New York in February,louis vuitton bags, I headlined an article I wrote for the International Herald Tribune with the question: "Where Have All the Trousers Gone?" I was lamenting the loss of that rangy American sportswear basic - zapped by skinny jeans and leggings.
Being of the 1980s generation, like Prada herself, I may have been inwardly longing for those easy-to-pack travel moments when a couple of pantsuits from Yves Saint Laurent, Yohji Yamamoto and Giorgio Armani could take you everywhere,louis vuitton prices. Simple tops, a blouse with a pussycat bow and that was it. Think like a man! No check-in bags, just a carry-on with flats and medium heels and a spare suit in a folding cover.
Who spoiled all that? John Galliano, maybe, with those gorgeous,louis vuitton handbags, wispy chiffon dresses worn with visible underpants (but only on the runway). Suddenly the cardigan was the new jacket. The glass ceiling was smashed, and it actually seemed more powerful for a woman to tiptoe through the debris in kitten heels with a chiffon dress or full skirt and that little cardi.
Then Phoebe Philo, at Céline, made her 21st-century pitch for pants,louis vuitton canada. Her full-on endorsement for trousers has made many 30-something women rethink "power" dressing. And it has opened up the possibility of wearing pants in different ways. By the end of the recent fall collections, Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Prada had all endorsed a new look: trousers under dresses, under coats. In their layering, with a perfume of Arabia, the idea seemed fresh and intriguing.
The tuxedo also has gotten another look, perhaps because of the return to Yves Saint Laurent of Hedi Slimane, who cut his design teeth on YSL men's wear. I looked again recently at Helmut Newton's 1975 iconic, sexually perverse images of Saint Laurent's "Le Smoking" at an exhibition in Paris, and I still got a frisson of the sexual power of androgyny. And I thought Gwyneth Paltrow looked fabulous at an Oscar party in Los Angeles in February wearing a plunge-front black jumpsuit from Boy by Band of Outsiders - the tux as antidote to the red-carpet dress.
Yet are young woman really ready for the matchy-matchy trouser suit worn by politicos like Hillary Clinton, 64, and Angela Merkel, 58,lv bags?
As first lady, the more fashion-conscious Michelle Obama, 48, has pointedly abandoned the jacket and trousers she wore as a lawyer in favor of dresses and cardigans.
Maybe the rise of city shorts, worn under a jacket and with thick hose, is a first step toward the revenge of pants on skirts. I loved that Guillaume Henry at Carven put fur lapels on a camel shorts suit, giving tailoring the freshness of his generation. Then there are the page-boy, over-the-knee pants, as seen at Marc Jacobs and Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel resort collection.
If there really is to be a return to tailored pants, the distinction will be footwear. Whether flats, kitten heels or platforms, a haute stride might make all the difference in raising trouser suits back to the height of fashion.Related articles:
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